France Summer 2019

Between spring and summer classes, Dylan and I decided to do a trip to France and it was fantastic. 

We flew in to Paris for 2 nights, took the TGV to Bordeaux for one night, then rented a car to drive southwest and all around including the cities of Guéthary, Toulouse, Cazals, Tours, then back to Paris.

Paris actually somewhat disappointed the first go-round. I had this romantic picture in my head of what it would be, as I'm heard a lot of people experience. It was certainly grand. Grander than any city I've seen. But it was a big city with lots of traffic... I should've expected this but for whatever reason I was picturing what Bordeaux actually wound up being- charming, romantic, pedestrian streets, flowers everywhere, more bikers, more dogs, lots of greenery... But I certainly enjoyed the strolls (even through the rain), people watching at cafes, and exploring all around. Returning to Paris at the end of the trip left me with a better impression; we stayed in a lively neighborhood, had more of an understanding of the French culture, and were getting our bearings fo the city. 

In Bordeaux, the tram tracks even ran through grass with tree canopies! We went to a bar where they were actually doing trivia about American music... We were horrible! We changed our names from something witty to "the terrible Americans."

Trip Superlatives: 

Most stunning hike (of maybe all hikes, not just this trip): French Pyrenees. We thought we made a mistake and got a family-friendly paved hike but after a bit of walking we came to the circuit de lacs that quickly became exactly what we wanted in a hike-- challenging enough, stunning views of snowy mountains, mountain lion tracks... We didn't get to see the lakes though actually because the snow got too deep and we couldn't see the trail anymore. We didn't get pictures of the prettiest area at the top, but every time I looked back I felt like I was in a dream. It looked so unreal.

Most unique meal: Restaurant Le C's: hake fish with berries on top and pureed beats on the side. Not to mention the restaurant was like in a (big) tent on a cliff overlooking the ocean.

Most delicious dessert (that I will be replicating): Cobbler with apples, apricot and chocolate at Brunch et Gout The.

Most unique church I've ever seen: Arantzazu in Oñati, Spain. We drove here from Guéthary "on our way" to the French Pyrenees and it was totally worth the detour. It had the wildest exterior that came off as quite harsh and intimidating, then a simpler, naturalistic interior with beautiful wood all around and abstract stone art at the altar. It was so different than the typical gold, elaborate Catholic churches. 

Most charming drive: driving from Spain admiring their ancient villages along the hilltops, through a 10 minute tunnel through a mountain and coming out into the French countryside of rolling, lush hills with sweet little farms, bright blue lakes... We just wondered what life was like for the people here in medieval times and now. Are they all friends and have dinner parties and bonfires together? Do they keep to themselves? Where do they get their groceries?!

Most comical night: Getting lost from Spain back to Guéthary, stopping off at a McDonalds to ask for directions... Dylan said, "you do all the talking, I'm already to angry (and is even worse at French than I am). We go up to the cashier and immediately when I start to ask for directions, Dylan goofily chimes in saying "Guthry?" Cashier responds, "Mcflurry?" Oh goodness. No luck there. Then I asked some ~13 year old girl that was watching the spectacle if she spoke any English--- I asked this French girl in Spanish if she spoke English... It was very confusing going from French speaking France to Spanish and Basque speaking Spain. At least that's my excuse.
While I was asking some other family enjoying their Big Macs for directions, Dylan was outside asking some dude and offered him a ride for his help. He went to get his bag, we went to the car, then took off. Sorry guy!

Most memorable hotel stay: 
Hotel Marienia, an old Basque mansion from the 19th century with so much history in the surfing community. Our room had a view of the ocean, the downstairs dining area was filled with surfing pictures and art from the 70s. Plus an added bonus of our sweet, reserved French surfer host whose sweaters we admired each day. Guéthary was a lovely little town in Basque country, which we learned has their own culture and (the oldest) language. Simple, clean white buildings with navy, red, hunter green, or black woodwork on the buildings. At first I thought they were kind of bland, but looking back, they stand out the most. I have such a clear picture of driving through these villages. We almost went back here later in the trip, but chose to check out some new cities that were more on the way back to Paris.

Most enjoyed days: family time with Aunt Cyndi and Mick in their most charming little town. It was just lovely. Beautiful sunny days with wisteria and poppies all around, beautiful stone buildings, wine tasting, traditional lunch at the auberge, fresh bread and desserts from the bakery across the street, homemade meals, canoeing on the Don___... But most importantly the sweet memories made with my family. I heard so many great stories about my family, especially seeing how my brothers and me are like repeats of my dad and his siblings.

Most difficult adjustment: lack of breakfast and vegetables. For the first several days, we were thinking that the French simple didn't eat-- we'd see coffee and croissants for breakfast, then nothing throughout the day besides more coffee, beer, and cigarettes. Then the meals we found were mostly meats, cheeses, and bread. Finally we learned the French eating routine, but I was still missing my eggs and fruit breakfasts. 

Poorest packing decision: no coat. high 40s-low 60s means you need a coat. Noted.